Jerry Lorenzo: American Fashion Catalyst

Jerry Lorenzo is part of a long lineage of American designers who have elevated modern sportswear into fashion: Perry Ellis, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and, yes, Rick Owens. But more than any other designer, Lorenzo’s approach is deeply rooted in a lived athletic life.

BY Stuart Brumfitt

 

 
 
 

 

Pillars of Fear of God
 
Lorenzo applies his energy for the élan of sports stars to his three-part Fear of God brand: Fear of God main line, Essentials and Athletics. If Fear of God is luxury and Essentials is leisure, then Athletics is raw functionality—the gear players perform in. But whether it’s tailoring, sweats or sneakers, there’s always a sports influence, along with a through line of generosity in cut, restraint in palette and a quiet sense of purpose. “The spirit doesn’t change. The proportion, the fit, the intention, all of those things are very much the same across the board, across all three areas, whether it’s our collaboration with Adidas, what we’re doing with Essentials and what we’re doing with our main line,” he said. “And for most of our Essentials or Adidas campaigns, we’re styling it with all three pillars. They all work together and they’re all in the same space emotionally.”
 
Lorenzo’s heroes are rarely high-fashion figures (except, perhaps, Giorgio Armani), but instead, sports’ most stylish: Jordan, Allen Iverson, Deion Sanders, Björn Borg, David Beckham, Andre Agassi and Anthony Edwards. Which takes us to the frontier of style: tunnel walks. Is he a fan? As the public and brand appetite for them seems to grow, Lorenzo is actually losing interest. “Today, it’s a little forced. It’s a little show before the game, which my son likes. Maybe I’m just aged out of it, but I look at somebody like Anthony Edwards’ [Minnesota Timberwolves] style more than anyone.He comes to the court with sweats on and flip-flops, like, ‘I’m coming to play. I’m not putting all this thought and energy into how I look for these pictures.’ To me, that speaks to the effortless spirit of the late ’90s: ‘I’m just coming to work.’ That, to me, was cool.”
 
He also appreciates former Philadelphia Eagles center Jason Kelce. “I don’t know if you remember the two brothers playing in the Super Bowl, and Travis [Kelce] had the suit and the hair, and his brother came in with cut-off jean shorts and flip-flops and a T-shirt and a beard? It was just like, ‘I’m coming.’ That was, to me, the freshest look of all. It was so cool. For me, what’s cool is honest, and I feel like as soon as something feels dishonest or too much effort, it loses a little bit of the cool.”